b'Like its creators, its clientele, and the neighbourhood it lives in, Lupins is unpidgeonhole-able. Owned and run by young female chefs Natasha Cooke and Lucy Pedder, this small, caf-style restaurant on Union Street serves seasonal British tasting plates with a Californian influence. The pair had visited the West Coast and both liked its casual dining style, and the collision of flavours from17 The Boulevard SE1Mexico, Japan and the Mediterranean. They imported the formula and applied it, with flavours from around the world, to great British produce. Fresh native ingredients are conjured into an imaginative and ever-changing menu of small plates made to share, like Cornish crab thermidora molten cheese and crustacean mash-upor oysters with fiery Thai Sriracha sauce and tangy lime butter. Consistently good food and a laidback, sociable setting have earned Lupins an army of local fans and lunch-tripping professionals since the restaurant opened in 2017, a following thats grown on a wave of rave reviews in the national press, led by The Times food critic Giles Coren.When we came here we underestimated the power of the locals, says Natasha. People love coming back, because its not super fancyits somewhere they can come when they cant be bothered to cook dinner.So who comes to brunch, lunch and dinner? Book a lunchtime table and you might meet some of those Times readers who moved here when it was just up and coming, City workers, and ad agency people. In the evenings, the local theatre crowd come from the Menier, Bridge and Globe. Theres a devoted local gay fanbase, too. Its an interesting dynamic, a real mix, says Natasha. Its always busy and buzzy, but its quite cosy.'